Lotus Super Seven S2 - Final update 09-07

[BERNARD "HOT ROD" KRON]

This is the 1/24th scale Tamiya kit. Believe it or not, it's my first Tamiya and I'm enjoying the detail. crispness and precision. My plan is to build the club racer version with the ero screens. I'm in the "proof of concept" phase right now, where I tackle the changes and difficult bits to make sure the idea I have will work. I'm going to try to duplicate the polished aluminum that was a popular treatment among owners of these early lotuses. I'm using Spaz Stix Ultimate Mirror Chrome shot to bare polished styrene. I did the bonnet, cowl and transmission and they came out really nicely so now it's time to tackle the masking job to accomodate the painted fenders and nose.



Dave Bantoft, a very fine modeler in Australia, had let me now a while back that he had resin copies of the classic Lotus "Wobbly" cast aluminum wheels that Colin Chapman first introduced with the front engine Lotus 12 Formula 2 car in late 1956. "Wobblies" are another popular early-lotus appearance item, usually finished in their characteristic yellow color.



Dave was kind enough to send me a set. Dave's resin castings included tires molded to the rims and solid backs. The wheels are just the right size but the tires were a little small. With the fact that they had full wheel backs with no room for the kit brakes it was simplest, if a little risky, to remove the tires and then sand the faces down to fit the kit tires. Here's a post-thrash bench photo of the result. I'm using AMT inner wheel rims. Once they're in the prerequisite yellow they should look mighty fine. You can also see the beginnings of masking job.



This is a brave new world for this confirmed rod and custom modeler, although this particular car has much in common with a hot rod. Wish me luck!

Thanx for lookin',
B.

[BRITBOY]

Looking good there Bernard and, if all else fails, I'm told it's not a major undertaking to transplant the Lotus' running gear under a Revell Anglia for a very British style rod.

[Deleted]

Aug 5, 2020 2:23:34 GMT -4 BRITBOY said:

Looking good there Bernard and, if all else fails, I'm told it's not a major undertaking to transplant the Lotus' running gear under a Revell Anglia for a very British style rod.

Now that is a great idea harley
I still have that jag motor you sent me jeez 
You got mt me thinking 

[Deleted]

Looks like a nice and interesting project 
Looking forward to seeing this one

[BRITBOY]

Aug 5, 2020 4:32:58 GMT -4 @sammytheace said:

Aug 5, 2020 2:23:34 GMT -4 BRITBOY said:

Looking good there Bernard and, if all else fails, I'm told it's not a major undertaking to transplant the Lotus' running gear under a Revell Anglia for a very British style rod.

Now that is a great idea harley
I still have that jag motor you sent me jeez 
You got mt me thinking 

Apologies for hi-jacking the thread Bernard!

Joe, the most common motor used in budget British Anglias would be a four pot, either a Ford/ Lotus twin cam or an Alfa Romeo. I think the Jag might be a bit of a squeeze!

[KRAZY RICK]

That is a great looking project Bernard

[BERNARD "HOT ROD" KRON]

Thanks guys!

This is turning out to be a highly technical project. The idea of doing a polished aluminum body dictates a really strategic approach to masking. I didn’t mention it in my first post but this is actually my second try at painting the body. The first time around I wasn’t careful about handling the outer body surfaces. The Spaz Stix Ultimate Mirror Chrome wasn’t fully cured and I landed up wearing it away. So the body went into the purple pond and this time I am planning carefully exactly when I pant each area of the body. The fenders and nose have been painted with Tamiya TS-43 Racing Green Spray. The body is “zoned” into 4 distinct areas with separate masking for each – the fiberglass parts (nose and fenders), the “upholstered” interior surfaces (painted with Testors Acryl Insignia Red), the unpolished bare aluminum surfaces (interior, engine compartment and underpan), and the polished aluminum surfaces. In the composite photo below you can see that I’ve painted the fenders. The second panel shows the fully masked main body. The interior surfaces are left in bare styrene, as is the underside. These will be sprayed in Testors Buffable Aluminum Plate. After several days of cure time I’ll buff the surfaces. The outer body surfaces (under the fenders up to the nose, between the fenders and the rear fuel tank area) will get shot with mirror chrome immediately before final assembly. If possible I’ll attach detail parts that lend themselves to masking before shooting the polished aluminum areas. My hope is to minimize handling and to be disciplined enough to only grip the model by the fenders, which will still be masked. The fenders will only be un-masked after final assembly.

In the composite photo you’ll also see the “wobblies” finished in Tamiya TS-34 Camel Yellow. Highlighting them in paint revealed that I need to do more work truing up the rim edges. A nose stripe was also applied in Camel Yellow. After the paint cures I’ll polish out the edge between the two colors.

While the paint hardens I’ll work on the motor, drive train and suspension which will be the subject of the next update.

Thanx for lookin’.
B.

[BRITBOY]

Ah, the joys of masking small areas!

[KRAZY RICK]

Did you think about perhaps using bare metal instead of the spaz stix aluminum Bernard ? ..... I don't think you can get much closer to an aluminum look ... by using actual aluminum & you wouldn't have the handling issue

[Deleted]

I had the same trouble with testors  metalizers
I ended up sealing them with some flat clear
Had no trouble handling the parts after l sealed them

[BERNARD "HOT ROD" KRON]

Thanks guys.

Aug 11, 2020 15:11:41 GMT -4 KRAZY RICK said:

Did you think about perhaps using bare metal instead of the spaz stix aluminum Bernard ? ..... I don't think you can get much closer to an aluminum look ... by using actual aluminum & you wouldn't have the handling issue

I have done several bare metal projects and I once experimented with large-scale BMF for that effect. I found that it was more trouble than it was worth because of the challenge of laying down large areas that were perfectly smooth.

I figured it was time for an update before this project is completely forgotten. It’s actually quite far along with all the subassemblies painted but this update will only show the bare metal aluminum surfaces painted, the completed wheels and tires, the completed nose piece, and the completed motor. The suspension is done and installed but not very visible in the photo below. The interior bits are all done and will go in next, along with the completion of the under-hood area. Then the windscreens, lights and final assembly. The next update should be the final one showing the completed details. The whole thing looks pretty ragged right now as I’m peeling back the masking only to the limit required for the assembly process. So far I’ve managed to keep the bare aluminum surfaces relatively unmolested, and the Tamiya masking tape has pulled up without lifting any paint.

Thanks for lookin,
B.

[BRITBOY]

If it's any consolation Bernard, trying to keep the real thing unscratched when it all goes back together isn't a lot of fun either!

[BERNARD "HOT ROD" KRON]

This project is now completed. Since this is a straightforward kit build there’s not much to comment on other than the fact that this is my first Tamiya kit and the fit and precision of the parts was a genuine pleasure, even if some of the subassemblies and detail parts were mighty small and fiddly. Tweezers are definitely in order! I think the accuracy and realism comes through in the final result. Below are a couple of photos. More “beauty shots” will be included tomorrow when I post this under Completed models.

Thanx for lookin’,
B.

[KRAZY RICK]

WOW Bernard - that is really something - I can't wait to see more pics

[BRITBOY]

Colin Chapman would be proud of your perseverance!