Chopped '32 Ford 3 window highboy - 4-30 Update
Mar 10, 2023 2:04:13 GMT -4
Post by BERNARD "HOT ROD" KRON on Mar 10, 2023 2:04:13 GMT -4
When the TRoG (The Race of Gentlemen) community build on the MCM board was launched at the end of last year it triggered a stream of possible projects in my mind, the result of which is that I’ve got a string of hot rod builds going starting back to July of last year. With this project it’ll be six in a row and this will be my third car for the TRoG build-off. I’ve promised myself the next project won’t be a hot rod, but in the meantime I’ve got to get this one out of my system.
This will be a ’32 Ford 3-window highboy with a severe 4 scale inch chop and a “all-the right stuff” ScoT blown flathead. The TRoG Airport Drags in Flabob, California near Riverside was the theme of the build-off, and one characteristic of the entries for that meet, one which is shared in general by the left-coast TRoG meets, is a relatively high degree of fit and finish compared to the rusty, crusty weathered vibe of the Wildwood, New Jersey TRoG beach races. My first two builds for the build-off were definitely of the weathered variety and for this one I wanted to create a car more like the relatively high-dollar traditional rods seen at Flabob and also earlier in at the Santa Barbara TRoG drags. That’s why I chose the “right-stuff” flatty. This vision also lead to some paint experiments which I’ll outline below.
To start with I set about working on the basic body. I decided to include the requisite louvered rear deck so often seen on TRoG style hot rods. The rear deck on the Deuce three-window, like so much of the that particular body style, differs from other Deuce bodies in several significant ways. For example it has suicide doors. It also has a wider rear deck opening than it’s cousin the 5-window. So, starting with the louvered deck from the Revell 5-window you either have to widen the deck lid or open the rear deck to a narrower width. Cutting open a narrower deck opening is simpler, requiring less finishing work since you merely have to fill in the old panel lines. The difference in width is considerable, about 4 mm. or 4 scale inches. That’s the approach I took which is illustrated in the following photo.
Next came the chop. As I said, it’s relatively severe in keeping with the style of chopped coupes at TRoG meets. Moreover, generally when I chop a coupe I will remove the rear window panel separately as an intact, un-chopped unit, so I can later control the overall size and shape of the window. But in this case I wanted a relatively crude “mail slot” effect so went ahead and chopped straight through to the widow opening.
Although the car is a highboy it will have a low overall stance. To achieve this I gave the Revell Deuce chassis I’m using a roughly 3 ½ scale inch Z at the rear. Being a TR0G-correct traditional rod it’s getting a Ford Model A buggy spring rear end with a Halibrand quick change. The Model A cross member is from an AMT kit.
The motor was interesting in the decision making I went through. Normally I would dig through my stash and use a kit flathead and spare parts for my flathead hop-up. But a SCoT blown version would require an aftermarket parts purchase, most likely from Replicas & Miniatures Co. of Marlyland. Not only would this involve some expense but also a significant delay. Perusing eBay I discovered several SCoT setups, invariably requiring purchasing a complete engine and all 3D printed. As far as expense was concerned, they weren’t that much more than a blower-only setup. The one I liked most was from eBay vendor Jay’s Resin Wheels. What caught my eye was the triple-carbs, which no one else offered. Unfortunately to get the triples required getting the Ardun motor, but I have plenty of finned high compression heads (I’m using Offenhauser heads from RepMin) and the Ardun conversion could go into my stash for a future project. Delivery took less than a week and total cost was just north of 20 bucks. Quality is first rate. Can’t complain…
And finally, a paint experiment. I want to achieve a faded paint effect, old paint but with little in the way of rust or chipping. And with a moderate degree of semi-gloss. The photo mbelow shows my color choice, Tamiya XF-18 Medium Blue, a flat military color which resembles Ford Washington Blue. The photo below has two images one, against a bluch background and other against white. The black background actually is the more accurate with respect to color. The fender is the effect I’m looking to achieve. It’s done partially by brush painting. The Tamiya bottle paint is such high quality and so stable that it self-levels to a high degree. I will use Krylon Satin Clear to achieve the required semi-gloss effect, and that’s what you see on the fender. This will be my first brush paint job on a full body since I was little kid, LOL.
Lot’s to do from here on out, but the startup has been encouraging.
Thanx for lookin’,
B.
This will be a ’32 Ford 3-window highboy with a severe 4 scale inch chop and a “all-the right stuff” ScoT blown flathead. The TRoG Airport Drags in Flabob, California near Riverside was the theme of the build-off, and one characteristic of the entries for that meet, one which is shared in general by the left-coast TRoG meets, is a relatively high degree of fit and finish compared to the rusty, crusty weathered vibe of the Wildwood, New Jersey TRoG beach races. My first two builds for the build-off were definitely of the weathered variety and for this one I wanted to create a car more like the relatively high-dollar traditional rods seen at Flabob and also earlier in at the Santa Barbara TRoG drags. That’s why I chose the “right-stuff” flatty. This vision also lead to some paint experiments which I’ll outline below.
To start with I set about working on the basic body. I decided to include the requisite louvered rear deck so often seen on TRoG style hot rods. The rear deck on the Deuce three-window, like so much of the that particular body style, differs from other Deuce bodies in several significant ways. For example it has suicide doors. It also has a wider rear deck opening than it’s cousin the 5-window. So, starting with the louvered deck from the Revell 5-window you either have to widen the deck lid or open the rear deck to a narrower width. Cutting open a narrower deck opening is simpler, requiring less finishing work since you merely have to fill in the old panel lines. The difference in width is considerable, about 4 mm. or 4 scale inches. That’s the approach I took which is illustrated in the following photo.
Next came the chop. As I said, it’s relatively severe in keeping with the style of chopped coupes at TRoG meets. Moreover, generally when I chop a coupe I will remove the rear window panel separately as an intact, un-chopped unit, so I can later control the overall size and shape of the window. But in this case I wanted a relatively crude “mail slot” effect so went ahead and chopped straight through to the widow opening.
Although the car is a highboy it will have a low overall stance. To achieve this I gave the Revell Deuce chassis I’m using a roughly 3 ½ scale inch Z at the rear. Being a TR0G-correct traditional rod it’s getting a Ford Model A buggy spring rear end with a Halibrand quick change. The Model A cross member is from an AMT kit.
The motor was interesting in the decision making I went through. Normally I would dig through my stash and use a kit flathead and spare parts for my flathead hop-up. But a SCoT blown version would require an aftermarket parts purchase, most likely from Replicas & Miniatures Co. of Marlyland. Not only would this involve some expense but also a significant delay. Perusing eBay I discovered several SCoT setups, invariably requiring purchasing a complete engine and all 3D printed. As far as expense was concerned, they weren’t that much more than a blower-only setup. The one I liked most was from eBay vendor Jay’s Resin Wheels. What caught my eye was the triple-carbs, which no one else offered. Unfortunately to get the triples required getting the Ardun motor, but I have plenty of finned high compression heads (I’m using Offenhauser heads from RepMin) and the Ardun conversion could go into my stash for a future project. Delivery took less than a week and total cost was just north of 20 bucks. Quality is first rate. Can’t complain…
And finally, a paint experiment. I want to achieve a faded paint effect, old paint but with little in the way of rust or chipping. And with a moderate degree of semi-gloss. The photo mbelow shows my color choice, Tamiya XF-18 Medium Blue, a flat military color which resembles Ford Washington Blue. The photo below has two images one, against a bluch background and other against white. The black background actually is the more accurate with respect to color. The fender is the effect I’m looking to achieve. It’s done partially by brush painting. The Tamiya bottle paint is such high quality and so stable that it self-levels to a high degree. I will use Krylon Satin Clear to achieve the required semi-gloss effect, and that’s what you see on the fender. This will be my first brush paint job on a full body since I was little kid, LOL.
Lot’s to do from here on out, but the startup has been encouraging.
Thanx for lookin’,
B.
